Some pertinent details about qualifications.

Pictures of some quality shop tools below.

Contact: 636-282-4379 or theshotgunshop@hotmail.com

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    I have operated my own gunsmithing shop for some time, and previously worked for others after graduating from a respected full time gunsmithing school. I also have an associates degree in automotive technology. After you learn to disassemble and fix cars, a gun looks less complicated. I am regularly recommended by some local established gun shops and have done work for other shops, including two that I use for rebluing and refinishing.

My machine shop practice includes welding, re-machining, repair, and manufacture of some special machine replacement parts for local companies. Repair of certain parts saves replacement cost, and parts I’ve made were better than normal replacement parts in workmanship and materials. I’ve even straightened prop shafts for Mercury Black Max outboards, and just did a drive axle from a Yamaha 4-wheeler.

I hope and expect any shooter to benefit at some time from my writings. My technical knowledge and experience may help you recognize problems before they become serious. Identifying potential pitfalls can save you needless frustration. My first tip for you (and you probably heard it here first) is that factory installed choke tube holes are almost never straight in line with the bore. I have seen barrels that shot a foot off target at twenty yards. High dollar, fancy name, special competition grades, I’ve seen pitiful work in all grades. I’ll have a detailed article concerning this in the future.

My purpose is to tell you the truth you need to hear, not just the limited details others may be willing to admit.

If you have a problem or unusual experience that may be useful for article inclusion, please feel free to write or call.

 

Tip file:

Slip-on recoil pads may be economical for reducing shoulder abuse, but continuous contact of rubber to wood has discolored many stocks and may even stick and peel finish when the pad is removed. Save your stock by removing that rubber slip-on pad after use.

 

Check your stocks for looseness regularly. If it can rotate or wiggle when firmly twisted or under pressure, damage or cracking may more easily occur. The attaching screws or clamping nuts may strip under pressure, and I have had to fix stripped holes in frames because a screw was loose.

 

Future articles featured here may include information and comments from users, maybe even you. Do you have a problem gun, damaged, or unreliable? Please include relevant information with problem description, if details are available. Some articles will be about improvements to a specific individual or group type of gun.

 

Future articles:

Bad guns, fragile guns- fix or scrap?

Youth shooters: treat them right.

Winchester 9410 fun gun improved.

Smoothbore slug gun upgrades.

 

Speaking of which, do you have test results for your smoothbore slug barrel/gun? Special upgrades on several user guns for comparison user testing would be possible to include in this future article. Want to participate?

 

When you need to reach deep, these are made to measure.

 

Accuracy, plain and simple

 

Fast comparisons with reasonable accuracy

 

 

How hard did you say that was, again? Let's test with the Ames.

 

 

Many more facts will be added in future.